Climbing in Kalymnos Greece

DSC_0785

We stepped off the ferry and into a car. Our driver Poppy drove us through the town of Pothia and across the island to our home for almost two weeks—Vasilis Studios. Along the way we dodged scooters and other cars on the narrow winding road. I wasn’t thrilled about renting scooters in the first place, but now the idea of driving scooters around Kalymnos really had me nervous.

DSC_0925

But, the scooters happened.

DSC_1350

 After a few days of squealing and begging Andrew to slow down, I decided they weren’t so bad. We took them all over the island—dodging more goats than cars.

 DSC_0830

DSC_0834

Another thing I didn’t expect to like was the slab climbing, but by the end of our trip in Kalymnos I actually enjoyed it. The slab was sharp, sticky, and just when you need another hold, a giant pocket would appear.

DSC_1253

When climbing gets vertical and you can’t find your next hold, it’s probably dangling above you in the form of a stalactite–part of it dripping with water, the other part feels like the ridiculous climbing holds you’ve only ever touched at the climbing gym.

DSC_0951

Tufas drip down the wall and make climbing holds vertical. Pinchers, laybacks, stemming, and knee drops—climbing feels more like a dance.

DSC_1318

DSC_1551

The best part about the climbing was not just the rock features… DSC_1630

It was the views from the rock…

DSC_1025

the goats and their bells…

DSC_0828

…and the scooter rides.DSC_1669

Photos by Andrew Bradberry

Kalymnos Beta:

How we got there: Turkish Airlines to Istanbul, then an hour flight to Bodrum, Turkey. From Bodrum we took a 45 minute (ish) ferry to Kos and then a 15 minute ferry ride to Kalymnos. (Most people fly into Athens and take another flight to Kos.)

Where we stayed: Vasilis Studios a quick scooter ride into town (Masouri) or a 15-20 min walk. The owner Poppy is friendly and the place is clean and comfortable.

Scooters: Some folks rented bikes and others cars, but it’s easiest to get around on scooters. If you can’t tell, I decided that they weren’t so bad by the end of the trip.

Favorite climbs in the 5.7-5.12 range: 

Arianna, Arhi, 5a+: Slab can be fun! Climb Optasia too.

Blind Test, Dolphin Bay, 5c+: Giant jugs and the ocean.

Argo Navis, Odyssey, 6a: Easy slab to juggy overhang.

Thetis, Arhi wall, 6b: Tufa greatness.

Kalynikhla, Kalydna 6b: Tufa blob dance.

Uncle Ernie, Panorama, 6c+: Stalactite rests and technical climbing.

Red Sea Secrets, Arginonta, 7a: Tufa climbing followed by a tech-y ending.

Nickel, Kalydna, 7a+: 32m of fantastic climbing that keeps getting harder.

Coffee beta: It’s not so good here. Americanos are probably your best choice.

Favorite places to eat: Aegean and Miltos

Favorite rest days: Drinking 3 euro wine and eating too much cheese, hiking to the Sikati cave and secluded beach below it, and visiting the town of Pothia.

Climbing in November: Whoever decided that Kalymnos was only nice until November was wrong. Crowds die down during the first week of November, but most places stay open until around November 15. Weather got a little rainy towards the end of our trip, but the temperatures were perfect for climbing. Bring your puffy for the nights!

Advertisements

10 thoughts on “Climbing in Kalymnos Greece

    1. Thanks Justin! We found the place we stayed at from a Mountain Project forum and it was the only place we saw mention of it. We rented scooters through our place, but there are many scooter rental options in the area. We had a friend recommend climbs in the area, but we also just searched the Guidebook for crags. I think we spent around $3,800-$4,000 for two people including plane tickets. It could be done cheaper.

  1. This sounds like a pretty neat spot! 4000$ for two weeks really isn’t that bad either. After having spent a couple of years in the Middle East, I have to say I share your original disposition towards scooters. Suicide on two wheels as far as I’m concerned, haha..

  2. Great information. Thanks for sharing!

    Do you think the Vasilis Studios would be a good place to stay if we’re climbing as well (In terms of proximity to crags, restos, markets etc.)? I am not crazy about scooters either so I’m trying to figure out the best area to stay in!

    Thanks!

    1. Hi Tiffany, I’m glad I could help! Vasilis Studios is great, but it’s not as close to the markets and restaurants as most of the other places are. It’s difficult to get around to crags without a scooter, but it would be possible with a few areas.

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s